Tour Roussillon - Soaked in Ochre and Perfect for Fall

Ochre and orange are having a seasonal moment and no where else on the planet does the color orange like the village of Roussillon in Provence, France.  Oranges, reds, yellows and even soft pinks cascade across the village, making this Provincial village the perfect design trip to be awe inspired by the Fall's seasonal colors. 

The technicolor glory of this hilltop village is reflective of the palette of the old ochre quarry that resides at the base of the village.  A visit to the town would not be complete without a tour of the ochre quarry and its Mars like caverns.  The village houses sit along cobblestone spiraling streets all saturated in what seems to be 50 shades of ochre.  Situated at the top of a red cliff offering stunning views of the contrasting green Luberon valley, Roussillon is one of the most photogenic villages of Provence.  Which also means that Roussillon is a tourist haven in the Summer, but virtually empty during the off-season of Fall.  If you're in search of a Fall destination, Roussillon offers seasonal appropriate beauty.

Images by Brooklyn Boheme.

Picasso in Paris

One of the most anticipated museum visits of Paris this October was Musée Picasso Paris.   I can't tell you how many times I attempted to visit this Museum over the past 6 years only to find that it was STILL closed due to a seemingly never-ending renovation project (it went vastly over budget and schedule).  Paris unveiled the fruits of its extensive 5 year renovation last October (2014) and was celebrating the Museum's one year anniversary during my visit.  The Museum has been criticized for its curatorial approach - discontinuity, void of art labels and the loose assemblage of themes.  I, however, loved the Museum and would place it on my "must do" list for Paris. 

Musée Picasso Paris is housed in a two-story 17th-century home, the Hôtel Salé, in the Marais.  With its garden, courtyard and architectural eye-candy, the house itself is worth a visit.  Plus, I loved the juxtaposition between the stately mansion and some of Picasso's more abstract cubism works.  Overall, the collection is a triumph in presenting the complex art life cycle of Picasso and the breadth of his artistic skills (and sometimes terrible artwork) - from classic paintings, to sculptures, pen drawings and his more famous cubism works.  For an amateur art lover like me, the curated collection is a great lesson in the evolution of a single artist over a period of time.  And, unlike the overwhelming volume of the Louvre, Musée Picasso Paris can be visited within an hour, making it the perfect cultural pit stop in a day otherwise filled with shopping in the wonderful Marais.

Courtyard entrance to the Museum.

The grand staircase.  It's difficult to imagine that this was somebody's home centuries ago.

The modern white sculptural chandelier pops against the period details of the mansion, and a Picasso piece in the background.

A museum lover viewing some of the 400 plus works on display.

One of my favorites - Picasso's Portrait D'Olga.  I love the unfinished state of this piece.

A view into the garden from the wavy glass of the Mansion's antique windows.

Images by Brooklyn Boheme.

Packing for Paris

Source unknown

I'm off today for Paris (and London)!  I've just pulled out my carry-on suitcase (yes, carry-on...no checked luggage for this gal) and am strategically planning my outfits for the week.  My strategy is to leave plenty of space in my carry-on for room to bring home brocante and vintage couture treasures while at the same time packing suitable ensembles to avoid the "Homeless" look.  I err on the side of under packing because, well, why fret about whether you brought enough undies, socks or pants when there are laundries widely available in Paris (or you could just buy more)? 

When packing for any destination, I try to pack staple pieces that are culturally appropriate - for Paris (Parisians are known for their effortless fashion ensembles, usually coordinated in muted tones and always with a scarf), this means basic black and gray layers - I opt for a basic black T by Bailey 44, long-sleeve gray T by Barneys, gray cashmere cape by Skull Cashmere, black leggings by Ella Moss and a navy skull-print scarf, and comfortable (but fashionable) tennies.  These clothing pieces accomplish my goal of soft thin textures that are easily rolled (less volume), intermixable and wrinkle free!  I also always pack a chic but cotton dress noir - mixes great with a cape and ballet flats, and you never know when you might be invited to a dignitary's for dinner!

Site Seeing Outfit

Dress Noir for the hypothetical Dignitary dinner.

Comfy Outfit for the Plane

Since Paris weather can be moody, chic layers are an essential.  Layers also allow you to change your "look" without extra luggage weight.  That one pair of jeans can go from tourist trailblazer to cocktail hour elegant with the change of a top and accessories.  I like to keep a pair of ballet flats in my handbag, so I can easily switch out my touristy trainers for smart shoes before a shopping or site seeing pit stop into a restaurant or bar (who has time to head back to the hotel first?).

Follow my adventures in Paris on Instagram!  I'll be back in a week!  A Bien Tot.

All images by Brooklyn Boheme unless otherwise noted.

Paris Address Book: Eat + Drink

My Parisian holiday is rapidly approaching (just a week away!), and I can barely concentrate on anything other than planning my foodie and watering-hole route de Paris.  We have some wonderful farm to table restaurants and artisanal cocktails in San Francisco, but nothing compares to the insanely delicious culinary delights offered on virtually every corner in Paris.  With so many choices and a limited amount of time in Paris, you need a gastronomic plan!  Here is my short guide to the "current musts" for Parisian dining+drinking (admittedly, it was no easy task to narrow down the ridiculous amount of gourmand choices and this is by no mean an exhaustive list).

Du Pain et Des Idees

Pain et Chocolate

• Boulangerie: Du Pain et Des Idees - recognized by French editorials as the "superstar" boulangerie, and I whole-heartedly agree.  Du Pain et Des Idees is a block from Canal St. Martin in the 10th Arr., a bit off the main tourist trail, but it's worth every single step.  I recommend the Pain Chocolate.
  34 Rue Yves Toudic, 75001 Paris
  Métro: Republique

• Patisserie: Gérard Mulot - centrally located in the 6th Arr., this patisserie and chocolate shop offers jewel-like creations.  The house Mûre-Mûre ganache is the specialty.  But really, you can't go wrong with any patisserie selection here.
  76, rue de Seine, 75006 Paris
  Métro: Mabillon or Odéon

• Macaroons: Ladurée - the original Parisian Macaroon dating back to 1862.  Their Salted Caramel Macaroon just may be heaven in your mouth, and once you've had this Macaroon, you'll snub all others. A Parisian once explained to me that the original Ladurée is far superior to any other Ladurée outpost due to its "baking conditions" and their impact on the delicate Macaroon.  Having tried Ladurée throughout Paris, NY and Tokyo, I must agree with him.  Head straight to the original House and skip the others.
  16 rue Royale, 75008 Paris
  Métro: Madeleine

• Chocolate Chaud: Angelina - the indulgent, rich, thick cup of molten chocolate - known as Chocolate Chaud - keeps me coming back to this institutional tea house time and time again. The belle epoque interior of this 110 year old tea house have seen the likes of Coco Chanel and Parisian aristocracy.

Ladurée

Boissons - Cocktails

• Fashionable Bar: Ralph's Bar - exemplifies how to be an American in Paris.  Ralph Lauren's gem of a bar on the Left Bank serves up swanky drinks and fashionable people watching.  Tucked inside the Ralph Lauren flagship store, this is a great pit stop for a martini shopping break.
  173 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006 Paris
  Métro: Saint Germain des Prés
   
• Local Wine Bar: Le Quinze Vins -  having stumbled upon this casual wine bar while wondering around the Seine (one of my favorite pastimes in Paris is to get lost - you never know what you'll find down a winding cobblestone passage), it has become a "go to".  The wine selection regularly changes and the nibbles are limited to regional charcuterie + cheese (as they should be).  Skip the expensive cheese at the restaurant and head to this local wine bar for an after dinner treat.
  1 rue Dante, 75005 Paris
  Métro: Maubert

Frenchie's Wine Menu

Cuisine

• Casual Gourmet: Frenchie Bar a Vins - don't be fooled by the wine bar title (or the seemingly tourist trap of a name, "Frenchie"), this is probably the best meal I've ever had in Paris.  Served up in an intimate wine bar that is the little brother to the famed Frenchie Restaurant across the street, the inventive small bites melt in your mouth hitting every taste bud along the way.  Ask for a table overlooking the petite kitchen for a theatrical show to accompany your meal.  No reservations taken, so show up 15 minutes before opening time to ensure a seat.
  5-6 rue Du Nil, 75002 Paris
  Métro: Sentier
   
• Modern Bistro: Le Comptoir du Relais St. Germain - classic by lunchtime and sophisticated by night.  While a dinner reservation may be impossible (unless you are staying at the adjoining hotel), they generally have tables at lunch time - though you just may have to wait in line.  This modern gourmet bistro serves seasonal classic fare and is a staple on my bistro circuit. 
  Next door, tucked into a narrow hallway of a space, is the outfit's affiliate L'Avant Comptoir Wine Bar.  Great place for a quick glass of natural wine and delicious tapa snack to fuel your tourist body.  Standing room only, so don't expect to kick-back and relax at this wine bar.
  9 Carrefour de l'Odéon, 75006 Paris
  Métro: Odéon

• Trattoria: Restaurant Heimat - an Italian stand-out located within arched stone walls below the street.  At lunchtime, this restaurant is filled to the brim with suits - a testament to its worthiness.  Within walking distance to the Louvres and adjacent to the fashionable galleries of Le Petit Palace, this is a wonderful non-touristy option boasting delicate fish options and a phenomenal wine list.
  37 rue de Montpensier, 75001 Paris
  Métro: Pyramides
   
• Gastronomic Bistro: Les Papilles - a wine store by day and an enchanting restaurant at night serving one prix fixe meal (no menu required because the chef's offering is that good).  In the heart of the Latin Quarter near Jardins du Luxembourg, this bistro is central and delicious.  Make sure to book ahead because they have only a handful of tables.
  30 rue Gay Lussac, 75005 Paris
  Métro: Odeon
   
• Michelin Excellence: Epicure - is THE spot for those in search of a worthy Michelin star meal (Epicure has 3 stars!).  Epicure exemplifies everything that Michelin represents - seasonal, inventive, beautiful and delicious.  If a costly dinner is outside of your budget, Epicure offers a budget friendly prix fixe option at lunch.  Conveniently located on the courtier street of rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré.
  112 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris
  Métro: Miromesnil

Epicure images by Becca Wahlquist.  All other images by Brooklyn Boheme.

Shopping San Francisco: Design+Decor on Sacramento Street

While the temperature is beginning to drop in most of the country as Fall officially begins, for us in San Francisco, the warm Indian Summer has just arrived.  My favorite Indian Summer Saturday activity is strolling the curated storefronts of Sacramento Street.  With the seasonal warm sunshine and design+decor eye candy of Sacramento Street, visiting this street is a mini-vacation of sorts.

Sacramento Street has a European air about it, with its Victorian storefronts featuring artful merchant signs dangling above the street.  The merchants take pride in their storefront windows, paying meticulous attention to the display of their wares.  It's no wonder that several of the City's elite designers have taken up residence on this street. Sacramento Street merchants vary from high-end home decor, fashion houses, interior designers, to couture consignment - something for everyone, so it's a great shopping destination for a group of friends.

On the home decor front, the famed merchants include March Pantry, Hudson Grace, Serena & Lily, Anthem, Rachel Ashwell's Shabby Chic, and Sue Fisher King (to name a few).

March Pantry offers exquisite kitchenware - stepping into this store with its edited displays of merchandise is like stepping into an editorial page out of a magazine.  March's interior is warmed by an Aga stove habitually on and baking delicious delights for visitors.  While we were visiting, delectable yams were the offering of the day.

Sylists will swoon over the homewares at Hudson Grace.  Hudson Grace is known for its curated white pottery, Greige goods and antique silverware.  Among my favorites during this trip, were white ceramic candelabras and sculptural watering cans molded from antique brass candelabras and tin watering cans found in a Paris Brocante.  I took home a specimen of a white head of lettuce (a ceramic version of course!).

Serena & Lily is another recommended home store.  Based in Sausalito, this outfit offers cottage home goods and recently launched a fashion line.  I love their timeless bistro inspired line.  Anthem, on the other hand, offers a more glam-eclectic line of furnishings, lighting and objets d'art.

March Pantry's kitchenware

Hudson Grace

Hudson Grace pottery and candelabras

Sculptural Watering Cans molded from antique French tin watering cans

Hudson Grace's entrance is presided over by this lovely lady

Sale bin of pottery at Hudson Grace

French linens at Hudson Grace

Antique Hotel Silver at Hudson Grace

Serena & Lily

Serena & Lily's signature bistro line

Textile art at Serena & Lily

Anthem

Regardless of taste, the most discerning of shoppers (and browsers) will be delighted by the design+decor of Sacramento Street.  Here is one of my favorite window displays of the day - bulldog statuary framed like a painting, reminiscent of the billiard dog paintings from the 1970s.

Artful window display
 

Sacramento Street Eats

After a hard day of feeding your shopping soul, nourish yourself with a cocktail or grub at one of these Sacramento Street eateries.

• Nico: Modern French bistro.
• Spruce: Classic San Francisco fare with inventive cocktails.
• Sociale: Romantic homemade Italian.

Images by Brooklyn Boheme.